دار زلمه ممتاز جدا

Monday, August 13, 2007

Another light goes out in Egypt


Egypt, headed by the ineradicable President Hosni Mubarak, has long been a key US ally, and likes to see itself as a “moderate” administration taking careful steps towards democratisation. Mubarak and his cohorts present themselves to the West as democrats who are nevertheless forced to take harsh measures in order to hold back the destabilising tide of political Islam, as represented in the Muslim Brotherhood. For the most part, the US is happy to turn a blind eye to the regime’s domestic abuses in the interests of wider strategic cooperation.

Yet in the same week as Condoleeza Rice announced a $13bn military aid package to the country, the regime moved decisively to end the career of its most credible rival for years – not a crazed, bearded bogeyman like the ones Mubarak conjures up to deflate western pressure towards political liberalisation, but rather a young, intelligent, lawyer with a passion for liberal democracy and human rights.

Ayman Nour, who was imprisoned in late 2005 on spurious charges of forging powers of attorney in order to set up his “Party of Tomorrow,” received a double blow on Tuesday, which could well have finished his political career for good. Just an hour before judges in one courtroom announced the refusal of his plea for release on the grounds of ill health (Nour suffers from diabetes and cardiac problems but the court decided that “his heart is strong enough” to put up with Egypt’s brutal prison system), the Political Parties Committee, a body created, it appears, for the express purpose of hindering the establishment of credible opposition parties, decided to appoint Nour’s rival Moussa Mustapha Moussa to the leadership of “Tomorrow”. Thus Nour is out of the game and his party divides and collapses. Mubarak 2, Democracy nil.

The Mubarak clan have clear motives for destroying Nour. While every official in the ruling NDP (the National Democratic Party – basically a rubber-stamping organisation for diktats from the presidential palace) denies that there is any plan for power to pass from Mubarak to his son Gamal, all appearances suggest that such a project is in the works. Yet Mubarak Snr’s recent constitutional amendments, while much-adorned with caveats, may mean that Mubarak Jnr., who can probably not quite get away with an actual coup, will have to face a multi-candidate presidential election in order to take power when his father finally leaves office. The presence of credible alternatives like Ayman Nour is thus simply unacceptable.

The threat became obvious early in 2005, when Dr Nour, set up the “Tomorrow” party in order to run against Mubarak Snr. in the country’s first ever contested presidential elections. While Nour took 7% of the vote (or 13%, according to independent observers), his challenge was marred by a campaign of smearing and intimidation against him. This campaign, which included threatening telephone calls and the publication of unsavoury “facts” about Nour’s wife, Gamila Ismael, came at around the same time as Nour and five other members of “Tomorrow” were charged with forgery relating to signatures needed to set up the party.

Nour’s trial was marked by blatant judicial prejudice, including the defendant being barred from the courtroom, the defence team being denied access to copies of the allegedly forged signatures, and further refusal by the court to subpoena documents crucial to the defence’s case. One of Nour’s co-defendants, who had made a pre-trial confession indicting Nour, retracted said confession, saying he had made it under coercion. The Judge at first refused to let the retraction be added to the record, then refused to order the protection of the defendant from state reprisals.

(Source: http://hrw.org/english/docs/2005/12/07/egypt12161.htm)

All of this adds up to what Human Rights Watch called a “terrible advertisement for President Mubarak’s supposed reform agenda, and for Egypt’s judiciary.”

Various human rights organisations, as well as governments around the world (including the US, to their credit) have criticised the trial as politically motivated. Last week’s double blow to Nour and “Tomorrow” leaves the liberal opposition in Egypt stranded, without a captain or a boat, and the presidential palace ringing with the sound of hands rubbing together in glee. If I was cynical, I would suggest that the fundamentalist bogeymen, having lost one of their rivals for the heart of Egypt, are perhaps rubbing their hands together too.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Mangoes, Mubarak and the fed up majority

The City has cooled down a few degrees, thank God. The first couple of days I was here were unbearable; it was as if the whole city had been covered by a giant cloche and heated by the sun until the air became like tar, a viscous mass of fumes, heat and muck.

Now, the place has taken on a pleasant, less sweaty feel, and providing you take four or five showers a day, you can stay fairly comfortable, especially if you mostly sit around all day, as I have done.

I am living a very pleasant life - I wake up at noon or one and take a cool shower followed by a cup of sooty black coffee laced with Cardamon. I do an errand or two - I'm just waiting for Monday's batch of favorable emails from editors at the moment (ya reet ya rubbi), so there's nothing much to be getting on with really - then I return to sit in the shade, eat sweet mangoes and discuss politics with a Greek maths teacher.

It's not so comfortable for the average citizen, of course. Life here is hard; as I talk to journalists, politikers and people in the street, the same issues arise time and again. Every day is a struggle for ordinary people; a struggle for bread, a fight for the essentials of life.

The Economist claims that the nidham ("regime" - the word "government" is too gentle a term for this brutal bunch) are pressing ahead with economic "reforms" in the belief that strong growth and an improvement in living conditions will reduce the attractions of fundamentalist Islam, the western-dominated government's biggest fear. Yet nobody here believes that growth will "trickle down" in any real way to the cigarette salesmen, cafe waiters and shoe polishers on the streets of Cairo. The nidham has had so many years to learn its trade, that of siphoning off billions of dollars of American aid, taxes from the Suez canal and income from tourism, that little seems likely to fall through Mubarak's tight fingers and into the pot of Ahmed Bloggs selling sugar cane juice on Talaat Harb.

So the majority, the millions who benefit nothing from the Mubarak tribe's alliance with the US State Department, carry doggedly on with life. Prices rise, wages fall, the heat causes power cuts and incompetent officials accidentally poison the tap water, killing fifteen people. Health insurance scandals hit the headlines, but nothing is likely to change just because the newspapers complain about it. The Egyptian pond is too stagnant for that, and the scum at the top is likely to stay there for a long time to come.

One guy of around my age - at 24, the median average Egyptian according to the CIA factbook - told me yesterday that if the American government were to offer citizenship to Egyptians in return for joining the American army and fighting against their Arab brothers in Iraq, the US embassy in Cairo would be overwhelmed with applicants. Why? Because people need the money. People are sick of Egypt, sick of the regime and they are desperate to find enough cash, either to live on, or to leave.

It could all be so much better! People here are so friendly and genuine, once you get beyond the superficial annoyances, but they have no faith in any change for the better. They simply want to be able to live, to eat, to pay the rent and perhaps have a bit left over for a trip to Mersa Matrouh in the summer. That is a million miles from reality for most Egyptians right now. The weather may have changed, but the likelihood of political reform and a revival in the economic fortunes of the majority seems very slim for the time being.

Saturday, January 13, 2007

Thoughts on the death of Saddam

Saddam's death sentence leaves one with a slight nausea at the way in which it was carried out and a feeling of indignant satisfaction at the fact that justice has finally been done to that evil meshuggenah who terrorised his people for so many decades.

I have two main worries about the execution. First of all, it felt less like the blind rule of justice and more like a sectarian revenge killing. The people behind the court case, the main faction in the government and the only folks present in the execution chamber were Shias, as far as I can gather. The symbolism of this death should not be underestimated, and the fact that it was in large part instigated and carried out by one specific faction in this deeply divided country can only open the door to further sectarianism and violence, the last thing Iraq needs right now.

The fact that no Kurds were involved at any stage and that Saddam was only tried and convicted on charges of crimes against Shias would make me feel, if I was Kurdish, happy that the bastard got what was coming but rather antagonised by being left entirely out of the process.

Part of the process of justice needs to be the recognition that a crime has been committed and and acknowledgment of a victim's suffering - this has happened for the Shias, but most definitely not for the Kurds.

The other part of the equation of course is the wider context in which the execution took place, and how it is viewed outside Iraq. There are two main views on this: firstly, that now Arab dictators will feel that they cannot get away with their crimes (although this may be counterproductive - the more vulnerable they feel the more oppressive they will become) and on the other hand that many Arabs feel that their honour as Arabs has been stung yet further by Saddam's demise (especially - unbeleivably - as punishment was exacted on the day of Eid, a day when no violence should take place according to Islamic Law). I have a lot of Arab friends and although out of the many I know who supported Saddam not a single one actually had to live under him, I think their views are crucial as they shape the politics of the region as a whole. Iraq certainly doesn't live in a vacuum.

The fact is that Saddam has been portrayed as the only Arab leader who ever stood up against America and for the Palestinians, and thus he held a special place in the Arab conciousness, at least among those Arabs who were kept ignorant of the terror and brutality he rained down on Iraq for all those years. Perhaps I can quote Harry S Truman (probably) - 'He may be a bastard, but he [was] our bastard'. This seems very much to sum up Arab feeling outside of Iraq, and it worries me. I think there will be a major Sunni backlash within Iraq, but on a broader, East/West level, one can only imagine what trauma is ahead for all of us. The death, even of a brutal dictator, can only have added to the massive, perhaps insurmountable problems between Arabs and the West.

Thursday, November 16, 2006

Quaker protests at Nuclear Weapons

The Quakers founded Pennsylvania, Rowntree's and of course Quaker Oats, but behind these achievements lies a serious movement committed to peace building and non-violent social action. As the Government decides whether to renew its nuclear weapons capabilities, Paul Raymond attends a Remembrance Sunday demonstration and examines the group's opposition to “re-proliferation.”

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It's Remembrance Sunday, and a biting November breeze blows over the lochs of western Scotland. A group of activists are gathered outside Faslane Naval Base, some standing and some seated, all in silence as the mist and drizzle blows around them. The police are there too, at least two dozen of them, guarding the entrance to the base and chatting quietly among themselves. The silence ends, and as one band of demonstrators start quietly to sing peace songs, a small group rush to the middle of the slip-road up to the gate and plant themselves on the floor. The police gather round, they start admonishing the demonstrators.

“This is a breach of the peace. If you fail to move you will be arrested. Is this clear? You can move away right now and you will not be arrested. If you do not move you will be charged with a breach of the peace.”

Nobody moves. Those huddled on the floor look pensive; serene, determined smiles play across their faces as the voices of the singers grow louder.

The arrests are made, but the protestors refuse to move. One by one, they are carried off to the police van, until only one old man remains. This is 72-year-old Tom Jackson, a retired magistrate, a Quaker, who doesn’t want his grandson to grow up in a world where there are nuclear weapons. The police suggest that he stands, it would be easier if he walks to the van. He's too old to be carried around by police officers, he has had a hip replacement, he's not a teenager.

Nonsense. He calmly looks up at the officer.

“I’m quite happy where I am, thank you,” he says.

He crosses his arms and sits in silence, in the middle of the road, in the cold, until at last four young policemen in reflective jackets take a limb apiece and, with the utmost care, carry him off. He gives a thumbs-up with each hand, and a cheer rises up from the modest crowd of onlookers as he is gently, respectfully bundled into a waiting police van and driven away.

This, then, is Quaker protest. “It's quite an emotional experience,” says Hugh Hubbard, another Quaker and retired physicist from Leeds who worked with uranium enrichment early in his career. “Just the contrast of the space and ordinary people… the whole lot is just full of so many extreme contradictions, people just being soft flesh and blood and these huge great systems which we’ve made for ourselves.”

He is referring to Britain's nuclear arsenal, the majority of which is situated behind the vast fence and rolls of razor-wire which surround the massive Faslane base, about forty miles north of Glasgow. The contrasts are indeed impressive: Gare Loch is a huge inlet from the Irish sea, surrounded by great hills covered in trees and heather, but in the midst of this beauty lies the pinnacle of man's destructive power. This is the docking zone for the four submarines which make up Trident, a fleet carrying missiles equalling the destructive power of a thousand Hiroshimas.

The founder of the Quaker movement, George Fox, wrote in 1651 that he lived “in the virtue of that life and power that took away the occasion of all wars.” The declaration nine years later to Charles II that “We utterly deny all outward wars and strife and fightings with outward weapons”, reflects the deeply-rooted pacifism at the heart of what became known as the Religious Society of Friends, or Quakers.

350 years later, the Quakers are still very much involved in peaceful activism and the anti-war movement. Government plans to replace the Trident system when it is decommissioned in 2024 are high on this year's agenda. “Friends” have been prominent among the many groups of activists who have been blockading Faslane since October 1, an action which they hope will carry on for an entire year, hence Faslane 365.

“I think this is a critical moment,” says Hubbard. “This is the first time that the nuclear weapons issue has been discussed outside the context of the Cold War, and outside the context of the Second World War, so we really need to re-look at the whole question of nuclear weapons.”

The timing is certainly important. As the Faslane protest runs its course, the Government is in the process of deciding if, and how, the Trident system will be replaced. The costs run into the tens of billions: perhaps a £25bn start-up cost, plus several times that to keep the system running for the coming years. A 2003 Defence White Paper noted that a decision would need to be taken on the replacement during the current parliament, but the Government has been accused of stalling debate on the issue. A group of junior ministers including Leeds Central MP Hilary Benn, the International Development Secretary, have been campaigning to see a debate “in conference, in the party, in the country and in Parliament.” Northern Ireland Secretary Peter Hain said that it would be unacceptable to leave the decision on Trident to “a couple of Cabinet ministers” without a full parliamentary oversight.

Some suspect that the decision has already been taken. The Independent newspaper claimed last month that work had already started on a new warhead at Aldermaston, the UK's main atomic weapons research facility. A recruitment video for the base claims that “most of our research” focuses on “the ability to provide a new warhead.” However to date neither cabinet nor parliament have discussed the plans.

If it were definitely going ahead, Trident Mark II would raise questions about Britain's commitment to nuclear non-proliferation. The Foreign Office calls proliferation “global menace,” and Britain remains a signatory to various non-proliferation treaties. The Government is, according to the FCO, “committed to working towards a world safer from global terrorism and weapons of mass destruction.” However, “our minimum nuclear deterrent capability, currently represented by Trident, is likely to remain a necessary element of our security,” they say. Joanna Dales, Leeds University's Quaker chaplain, sees the irony here.

“It's nonsense to talk about non-proliferation of weapons when we have such weapons of mass destruction ourselves, it's extremely hypocritical, and wasteful of resources - it's something we need to do all we can to abolish,” she told me, standing on the muddy verge next to Faslane's main entrance. She’s dressed as a white poppy, wearing a boiler suit and a matching crown of petals, while telling me about her long-held opposition to nuclear weapons.

“I abominate these monstrous weapons and I think it's vital to deliver the world from these things,” she says.

Martin Deane, secretary of Hull green party, takes a similar line. “In the way that we hang out so closely with America, we already have an unassailable defence, and who are our enemies, anyway? We’re told that our enemies are terrorists. Well, our nuclear missiles aren’t going to stop us getting attacked by terrorists, that needs a completely different approach.”

The latter view is shared by Professor Shaun Gregory, Director of Bradford University Peace Studies department. “A nuclear deterrent is in my view not relevant to the key threats the UK faces from global warming, Islamic terrorism , etc, and the estimated cost of replacement (some £15-25 billion) would be much better spent on the equipment and personnel the UK needs to support its conventional operations overseas and the defence of the nation at home. [It would also] be against the letter and the spirit of the Non-Proliferation Treaty which committed the existing nuclear powers (at the time) to work towards global disarmament.”

Professor Cristoph Bluth, of Leeds University's POLIS department, agrees. “My belief is that nuclear weapons should be eliminated from international relations and all states should disarm. I don’t think that British security is affected by giving up nuclear weapons.” He suggests that a small stockpile of weapons could be kept under international supervision in case some state decides illicitly to arm with nuclear weapons in the future, although he is vague about how this would happen. On Trident, however, he is clear: “I don’t believe that Trident has much effect on international security.”

Martin Deane goes further. “I think we should have moral outrage across the country that we even have these weapons, let alone the contemplation of using them.”

That is perhaps a little optimistic. Polls show that 59 per cent of the British public are against replacing Trident when presented with the cost, but this can hardly be described as widespread outrage. Clearly the programme has not reached the public agenda in the same way as other major policy issues such as Iraq, schools and the NHS. This is perhaps surprising: £25bn could, according to the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament, pay for 120,000 newly qualified nurses every year for a decade, protect 90 million acres of rainforest, or scrap student top-up fees for the next ten years.

“It's not just a question of the weaponry,” says Hugh Hubbard. “It's going to feed through the whole of society because it's like a cancer. All these weapon systems have to be made, they have to be developed, they have to be manufactured, and they have to be understood in terms of the science, in terms of the nuclear engineering. All that takes a massive effort in terms of committing people to that type of thinking. It prevents the development of other ideas which are basically more human.”

The argument seems sound. Aldermaston's costs have increased by £278 million over the last five years. Professor Brian Jamison, at the Mountbatten Centre for International Studies, calculated that while £15bn would be spent on building a new fleet of submarines to carry the replacement missiles, it would only create or preserve 3,000 Scottish jobs, at a cost of £5 million per job. The effects of Trident Mark II on the economy would be huge, and an ICM poll from June of this year shows that 81 per cent of the British public want a parliamentary vote on the issue.

But if Government's stance needs to be swayed, is blockading Faslane the way to do it? The police certainly don’t seem to think so. “Do you really think they’re going to stop Trident II going ahead?” scoffed one senior officer. 30 officers a day take on 12-hour shifts outside the base, which is obviously a strain on resources. The project has been running since October 1; since then 28 groups have blockaded the base on 37 different days and there had been, at the time of going to press, 255 arrests. PC Jane Black, the officer in charge of Sunday's policing called the protests “good-natured” and said, “generally it's been a peaceful protest, we’ve not had much bother”, reflected in the fact that in spite of the large number of arrests, there has been only one prosecution, which related to a traffic offence.

This level of arrests, however, obviously puts pressure on the police. It's also hard to see people's opinions swaying as they sit in massive rush-hour tailbacks along the A814 past the base. As the Faslane 365 resource pack says, “civil resistance works best if the local population backs it” - is this the best way to achieve that? I put the question to Martin Deane.

“It's a hard call. The point has to made as forcefully as possible that the preparations inside the base could lead to a thousand Hiroshimas. What's to be hoped through all this is that civil disobedience causes the authorities the maximum amount of discomfort so that they change their approach.”

Deane was among those arrested in the Remembrance Sunday blockade. He was not charged, and will be going back again. 30 or so Quakers made the trip up from the Leeds and other parts of Yorkshire for the blockade, at least 10 of whom were arrested. Several spent a sleepless, wet and windy night camping next to the base, some spent the night in police cells. All spent many hours standing by the main gate of the base, singing, hanging out banners, bearing witness to their slogan: “speak truth unto power.” Was it all worth it? I asked Hugh Hubbard.

“I don’t think we’ve got any choice.”

Friday, September 29, 2006

Be grateful for your education

Term has started, university is back, and thousands of students have come to invade Leeds again. Some of us are here for the first time, while some are returning for our second or final years. Among both groups there are the enthusiasts, the ones who turn up early for lectures and consistently hand in perfectly crafted essays with a smug little smile, 3 weeks before the deadline. Then there are the rest of us, who perhaps party a bit much, don’t get started reading quite early enough and finish up the term as bleary-eyed, nocturnal beings, addicted to caffeine and totally disenchanted with this place of cruel torment they call Academia.

If you belong to the first group, good for you, but if you’re part of the second, it’s good to take some time out every once in a while to look at the world with a broader perspective. When exams are approaching, it’s easy to forget how lucky we are, but we shouldn’t forget that the vast majority of the world’s population never get the chance to go to university, indeed in developing countries only about 60% of 15-19 year olds are enrolled in secondary school, and among these far fewer are actually able to attend full time, let alone progress to university.


Statistics, of course, only tell a rather abstract story, so it’s good sometimes to connect with stories on a more direct, personal level. Of course we can’t all hop off to Zimbabwe or Peru every term for inspiration to work a little harder, but we can all go to the cinema, and there are some great films out there which portray desperate realities of poverty and hopelessness about which many of us have no idea, or have simply forgotten exists.

Thursday saw the end of the ‘Bite the Mango’ International Film Festival in Bradford, which tried to give ‘a glimpse of the world through film’, showing documentaries and dramas from places as widely varied as Havana, Allahabad and South Africa. Two days of the festival’s programme were devoted to films about children in difficult situations, including documentaries on street children in Moscow, orphans in Kashmir and children fleeing forced recruitment by rebels in Uganda. The one which caught my eye however was by a film by Syed Ali Nasir, called ‘The Miseducation of Pakistan’. It tells of the hardships faced by schoolchildren in Pakistan – ‘Schools with no teachers, schools overflowing with garbage, schools under the open sky, without drinking water or electricity’, along with a corrupt network of officials who together prevent a whole generation of children from getting even a basic education.


Another film, Death in Gaza, was intended to be one of two documentaries focussing on the lives of children in Occupied Palestine and Israel respectively. Tragically however, the director (James Miller) was shot dead by an Israeli soldier towards the end of filming in Gaza and the planned sequel about Israeli children was never made.

Death in Gaza was one of the most disturbing films I have seen for a long time. It tells, in graphic terms, about the lives of children in Rafah, a city on the border between the Gaza strip and Egypt, a place dominated by sniper towers and barbed wire, home to Ahmed and Muhammed, both 12 years old, and Najla, 16.

Ahmed and Muhammed are just like any other 12 year old kids; they like playing football with their friends, they go to each others’ houses and play in the streets with toy guns. But there is a sinister side to these war games – a few streets away a real war is happening, and every day it takes away a little more of Ahmed and Muhammed’s short, violent childhoods.

Death is commonplace here, whether voluntary, as in the case of hundreds of desperate young men who strap explosives around themselves and detonate them over the border in Israel, or otherwise: constant Israeli incursions here have affected everyone. Najla, our sixteen-year-old, seems to have lost count of how many family members she has lost since the start of the second intifada. She names at least 6. ‘In Rafah’, we are told, ‘it’s common for kids to write letters to their families in case they’re killed’. House demolitions are common. ‘Life’, says Najla, ‘is all despair’. And we’re complaining about essay deadlines?

Ahmed is only 12 years old but his face already gives away much of the hardship he and his family have suffered under occupation. His talk is full of anger – he talks about killing as many Jews as he can and being prepared to die if necessary in order to fight against them. He has fallen in with a group of militants, acting as a lookout for them during their nightly street fights with the Israeli military. We are taken inside one of their safe-houses, where men with balaclavas brandish their rocket launchers and Kalashnikovs and play ‘mercy’ with Ahmed, who they call ‘our little brother’.

When the interviewer questions the morality of using young boys such as Ahmed to do such dangerous work for them, one of the militants answers her: ‘Don’t worry about responsibility, sister, when we say goodbye to Ahmed, there are a thousand others like him in the streets’. Life has become so hopeless here, so expendable, that any hope of a better life in the future seems almost beyond the imagination of most of the children we meet. They play football, then go home and draw pictures of bombs and rocket launchers. Najla dreams of becoming a lawyer, ‘so I can judge fairly between people’. It would seem that everything around her is against her.

So it may seem like a drag to be back in classes again. You may feel depressed and intimidated at the thought of lectures, essays and deadlines. But spare a thought for those millions of children who will never have the chance of such a good education as yours. I’m not asking you to feel sorry for anyone, nor to give money to charity, though I’d be the last person to stop you. I’m just asking you to be grateful for what you’ve got.

Sunday, June 18, 2006

More for the arabs...

Apologies to those who only speak English. More for you later, I hope.

تحية طيبة من قرية الغطنة الصعيدية في مصر.

اتمنى انكم بخير و ارجو ان تكون في احسن الصحة.

ارسل هدا الرسالة من الصعيد حيث وصلت قبل ايام قليلة من القاهرة. فرحت كثيرا بزيارة تلك المدينة العظيمة العتيقة و لم تكفي تلك الأيام التي امضيتها فيها ولكني سارجع بعد قليل ان شاء الله و اردت ان ازور صاحب في الصعيد قبل ان يسافر فجئت الى الصعيد على الطول.

وصلت الى مدينة اسيوط عن طريق الصحراء الغربي الدي يوصل القاهرة في الشمال بأصون في الجنوب, جاريٍا عبر الصحراء القاسية اليابسة التي تحاصر النيل من الناحيتين الشرقية والغربية و تبتدأ على بعد اقل من عشرين كلم من ضفتيه في بعد الأماكن.

هده الصحراء جافة جدا لا ماء ولا شجرة فيها الا في واحاتها الخصيبة التي تأخد جميع تغديتها من النيل. تمتد هده المناطق التي تتوفر بالنخيل و حقول الرز و بساتين الموز و المنجو لبضعة كلم حتى تختفي الأشجار و الأعشاب بدون تحدير و تظهر الصحراء الجافة القاسية مرة اخرى.

عبرت مسافاة 400 كلم بين القاهرة و اسيوط بحافلة صغيرة (ما يسمى هنا ب"ميكروباص") و زرت عائلة صاحبي هاني الدي حاليا في المغرب. انتقلت بعد زيارتي لهده العائلة الطيبة الكريمة الى قرية صغيرة اسمها قطنة, التي بجانب قرية اكبر اسمها الغنايم.

لم اقصد ان اكون هنا لمدة طويلة ولكني اصبحت احب الناس هنا كثيرا و من الممكن الا اترك ابدا....

فالناس هنا حقا احسن ناس و يعيشون حياتهم في الحقول و بيوتهم البسيطة بدون شكوة ولا سرعة ولا ضجيج. ايقاع الحياة بطيئ فلا بأس ان اجلس ساعتين صامتا اتفرج الخائط يخيط جلبية صعيدية لي و يحب الناس ان يجتمعوا مساء تحت النجوم و يغنون اغاني ام كلثوم...

Saturday, June 10, 2006

رسالة من ام الدنيا...

ايها اصدقاءي الطيبين

تحية طيبة و اشواق حارة

و بعد فانني اتمنى انكم في احسن الصحة و ارسل لكم تحياتي الحارة من القاهرة, عاصمة مصر و قلبها الثقافي فهي كانت و ما زالت بؤرة الثقافة و العلم والابداع لما لا يقل عن الف عام . يفرحني فرحا عظيماان ارسال هده الرسالة فانني جالس في شقة صديقي في زمالك بين ضفتي النيل. لقد شاهدت اليوم الاهرام في الجيزة وتجولت في شوارع المدينة و بين رفوف مكتبة الجامع الامريكية في القاهرة حيث انفقت مالا كثيرا فالكتب هناك لتعلم العربية لغير الناطقين بها لا توجد في اي مكان اخر.

و انا في القاهرة ساحاول بادن الله ان انشر رسائل في هدا مجال اسبوعيا او اكثر

اما للان فاتمنى لكم جميعا احسن الصحة و احلى الايام

والسلام

بابلو